What Is Goldwork Embroidery? A Beginner's Guide

If you've ever seen a heavily embroidered military uniform, a ceremonial robe, or an intricate church vestment and wondered how those raised, glittering details were made — that's goldwork.

Goldwork is one of the oldest and most technically rich forms of hand embroidery. It originated in the Middle East and Asia thousands of years ago, travelled through Byzantium, and became deeply embedded in European ecclesiastical and royal needlework traditions. Today it's experiencing a genuine revival, and for good reason.

What Makes Goldwork Different

Unlike most embroidery, goldwork doesn't use thread in the conventional sense. Instead, it uses metal-based materials — passing threads, Japanese gold, pearl purl, rough purl, smooth purl, check thread, and more — each with a distinct texture, reflectivity, and method of application. Some are couched onto the fabric surface, some are cut into tiny segments and stitched down like beads, and some are manipulated to create raised, three-dimensional forms.

The result is embroidery that catches light in a way no other technique does. It changes as you move it, as the light shifts, as the viewing angle changes. That's what makes it addictive.

Is It Difficult?

Goldwork has a reputation for being advanced, and some aspects of it are — but many of the core techniques are surprisingly accessible once you understand the logic behind them. The materials behave differently from regular thread, so there's a learning curve, but it's less about years of experience and more about understanding how each metal thread wants to be handled.

I came to goldwork after years of other embroidery, and what struck me most was how immediately rewarding it felt. Even an early piece, imperfect in its execution, has a presence that's hard to achieve with silk or cotton alone.

What Do You Need to Get Started

The barrier to entry is mostly materials — goldwork threads and components aren't available at general craft shops, and they can feel confusing to buy if you don't know what you're looking at. A good starter kit will include the essential metal threads, a piece of appropriate fabric (usually a tightly woven silk or cotton), a slate or ring frame, beeswax, and a mellor or stiletto tool.

You'll also want to work on a frame rather than holding the hoop on your hands — keeping the fabric drum-tight is important with goldwork in a way it isn't with other techniques.

What Can You Make

Almost anything. Goldwork is traditionally associated with heraldic motifs, religious imagery, and botanical designs, but contemporary goldwork has expanded well beyond those roots. I design and teach pieces featuring birds, insects, fish, and animals — often combining goldwork with stumpwork to create raised, dimensional effects. The combination of the two techniques is particularly powerful.

Where to Learn

Goldwork is best learned in person or in a structured online environment where you can see how the materials behave in real time. Books are useful for reference but don't capture the tactile nature of the craft well.

I teach goldwork online via Zoom and in person in London; if you're curious, you can find my current workshops and kits on my website.

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